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Boring holes through the studs behind the fixture may be necessary to run electrical cable to an upper corner, where it will exit the wall and ultimately enter the range hood.
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Secure any wires in the wall with insulated electrical staples...
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...then attach strips of wood, or battens, to the sides of the opening. A wallboard patch will be fastened to these battens.
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Cut a piece of wallboard to fit the hole, and bore a hole into a corner of this wallboard patch for the wire to pass through. Set it in place, and feed the wire through the hole.
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Then, fasten the piece to the battens with drywall screws.
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The space is now ready to accept the new vent hood. Clamp a temporary support in place that will hold the exhaust hood in position and leave your hands free to make the necessary preparations.
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A strip of duct tape on top of this brace will protect the new range hood as it slides over the brace and into place.
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With the hood secured by the temporary brace, feed the electrical wire through the rear of the unit. Leave it here for now.
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Push the hood upward so that it will connect with the existing vent ductwork.
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Small blocks of wood wedged between the brace and the hood will keep it in place.
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Now, both hands are free to use screws to fasten the vent hood to the underside of the cabinets above. Remove the temporary bracing.
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With the hood securely in place, it's time to make the electrical connections. Start by attaching the ground wire to the green screw on the frame.
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There are really only two additional connections. Twist the black wires together and secure them with a wire nut. One of these black wires has a white insulation layer over it, but the black layer is closest to the wire.
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The white or neutral wires, are handled in the same way: twist them together and cover the bare wire ends with a wire nut.
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Secure the cover in place. |
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