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| Slit the plastic sheathing on the cable, and strip off the wire insulation for the new wire. |
The junction box may have a perforated hole, or knockout, where you can install a new connector. Slide the wires through this connector and secure them in place with screws. |
Make the connections by connecting similar colors. Start with the ground (usually green), then the neutral (usually white), and finally, the hot (usually black). Twist a wire nut onto the ends of each of these three wire connections. |
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| Replace the cover of the junction box and drive in a few cable staples to secure the wires in place. |
Back upstairs, it's time to run cable from the new junction box into the cabinet that will hold the transformer for the undercabinet lights. Using a 3/4" Bell hanger's bit, drill through the back of the cabinet and into the wall. |
Feed one end of your trusty fish tape into the hole you've just drilled, and direct it toward the hole in the wall that will soon be your light switch. |
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| BX armored cable will be used in the wall behind the cabinets. To strip the cable, you can use a stripping tool, or do it yourself by
gripping the cable with two hands, at least 7 inches from the end. Bend the cable until you feel it crack. Twist your hands in opposing directions and when the sheathing rises far enough from the wires inside, snip it with diagonals. |
Fold the stripped end of the BX armored cable over the hook on the end of the fish tape, and wrap the entire end up to the sheathing in electrical tape. |
Pull the fish tape up through the wall until the and armored cable is far enough into the cabinet to reach the place where you will install the transformer for the LED lights. |
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| Cut the other end of the BX armored cable. To protect the insulation from being cut by the metal edge where the sheathing was cut, slide the exposed end of the wires into a plastic anti-short bushing and slide this bushing all the way down the exposed wires until it is snug up against the armor. |
The BX cable is then fed into the back of a new junction box, where it will slide into a connector that clamps the armored cable in place. |
The Romex cable from the basement is pushed into the bottom of the box and is held in place with a similar (but slightly different) connector. |
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Unlike the electrical boxes used in new construction, the box used in this example does not have to be attached to the framing.
Instead, it's held in place by wings that expand outward as screws on the front are tightened. In effect, the box is clamped, front and back to the wall material: in this case, wallboard.
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Attach the green wires together and twist on a wire nut. Then twist the white or neutral wires together and cover them with a wire nut. The switch has two black pigtails. Attach one to the black wire from the basement, and the other, to the black wire from the BX cable in the wall. |
Set the switch into the box and secure it in place with mounting screws. Place the cover plate in position and install the screws. |
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