 |
 |
 |
| An orbital sander, held on edge, vibrates the melamine form, leveling the concrete mixture, distributing the aggregate, and eliminating air bubbles. |
Steel reinforcing mesh and rebar is laid in place on the settled concrete. Another pass with the vibrating orbital sander sinks the steel into the center of the mold. |
Finally, another layer of concrete is poured on top to completely fill the melamine form. a piece of wood is used to screed off any excess concrete. The concrete is left to cure for one week. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| When the concrete has cured, prepare the workspace for its new countertop. To allow for easier access, remove the vanity doors. |
Turn off the hot and cold water supply valves. |
Remove the P-trap. Keep a bucket underneath the P-trap as you work, as any water still in the pipes will drain out. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| Unscrew and remove the supply lines that lead from the shutoff valves to the faucet assembly. |
A two-inch-wide putty knife cuts nicely through the silicone that holds the sink to the vanity below. |
If the countertop is fastened to the wall with silicone, use a utility knife to score along the edge of the countertop. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| A cold chisel works well to completely separate the sink from any remaining adhesive... |
...as does a pry bar. |
Replace the cabinet doors and remove the old sink from the vanity. |
| |
|
|
 |
 |
 |
| If installing a new sink, it will be easier to prep it before it is placed into the cabinet. A coil of plumber's putty around the drain opening, under the new drain, will create a watertight seal. |
The tail piece is inserted from the bottom, hand-tightened and snugged up, using a pair of multi groove pliers. |
Wipe away any excess putty that has been squeezed out, install the drain stopper and install the sink. This sink will be supported by rails that will hold it in place. |
| |
|
|
  |
|
|
