- The first section was clear but they didn't have an access port in the next section so they used a drywall saw to cut a small hole into the wall to inspect that section as well.
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- After confirming that both sections were clear of any obstacles, they went to work cutting away the sheetrock with drywall saws along the outline they had drawn earlier.
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- Once the perimeter was cut out, Lorri grabbed the inspection hole opening in the drywall while Steve grabbed the intercom opening. Together they wiggled it back and forth several times before they were able to pull it free.
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- A small strip along the edge was still attached to the stud, and they removed this piece with a pry bar.
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6. Check for load bearing
- The next step of the project was to remove the sections of the wall studs that were in the way of the opening.
- Before cutting into the studs, they needed to be certain that this was not a load-bearing wall, which is one that supports weight from above, usually a ceiling joist. They went up in the attic and determined that this was not a load-bearing wall.
NOTE: It is very important not to skip this step. If you are not certain whether or not the wall is load bearing, then it is essential to call in an expert and have them make that determination.
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7. Cut through studs
- Ron wanted to minimize the damage to the surrounding wall as he cut the studs away. With that in mind, he drew lines and cut slots about an inch and a half below the opening.
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- He then inserted the reciprocating saw into the slot and cut off the bottom of the stud. He repeated this process at the top, and the moved on to the second wall stud.
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- After the studs were cut, they were still attached with screws coming through the drywall from the other side. It was necessary to loosen the studs to remove them. To get a better grip and more leverage, Lorri and Ron attached two clamps to the stud then rocked it back and forth.
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- After the studs were loosened they removed the clamps, dropped the stud down a bit, and carefully removed it.
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8. Framing and patching
- They framed out the top and bottom of the opening with short 2 X 4s, beginning with the one at the top, called a header. They measured and cut the header for a snug fit. They used a hammer to tap the header into place.
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- They attached the 2 X 4 to the cut ends of the studs with three-inch screws.
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- The bottom piece, which is called a sill, was attached the same way.
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- They also drove screws in at an angle to attach the header and sill to the studs on either side.Together, the header and sill would help to secure and strengthen the cut ends of the studs.
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- Before installing the niche they needed to fill the cutting slots Ron had created earlier. He patched the slots with spackling compound.
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9. Install niche
- They used polyurethane adhesive to attach the niche to the wall. They put on gloves before handling the adhesive to prevent the adhesive from getting on the skin, where it is impossible to remove. Before applying the adhesive to the niche, Ron recommended a test fit.
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- Ron applied the adhesive in a serpentine pattern along the lip, and then added a few dollops on the back.
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