How to Build an Outdoor Shower Enclosure

For this HouseCalls project, Ron was asked to stop by the coastal community of Tybee Island, Georgia. This is the year round home to Dodie Gay who loves nearly everything about her life here. What she didn't love was the sand and dirt that used to get tracked into her house from the nearby beach. The outdoor shower she had installed certainly helped with the problem, but there was still something missing…privacy! Ron designed an enclosure for the shower and the two of them got to work!

Click Here For a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

1. Design:

• Ron designed an enclosure that would give Dodie the most privacy, but still allow light and air in. The design was similar to a fence, with corner posts to support the 1 X 6 wood slat walls.

2. Post installation:

• The first thing to do was install the posts that would support the enclosure. The posts were attached to the concrete using what are called post bases.

• Ron determined the location of the five posts and then set each base ½ inch from the edge of the existing concrete pad.

• To install the bases, they first drilled holes in the concrete for the expansion anchors that would secure the post bases in place. To make sure that these holes were exactly the right depth, they marked the drill bit with a piece of tape to indicate just where to stop drilling. Ron showed Dodie how to use the hammer drill, which pounds as it drills making the work faster and easier. A hole can be bored in a matter of seconds using a carbide tip masonry bit.

• After using an air compressor (or a can of compressed air) to clear the dust that had collected inside and around the hole, they began to attach the post bases.

• They used expansion anchors, designed especially for concrete. As Ron and Dodie drove the anchors into the hole, they left the nut on to protect the threads. Once the anchors were in place, they slipped off the nuts and positioned each post base, remembering to leave about ½ inch to the edge of the concrete. They replaced the nuts and washers and secured each base tightly in place with a ratchet.

• Using a miter box, they cut the 4 x 4 pressure treated pine to the desired length for the posts.

• They set the posts into the bases, securing them with galvanized ten-penny bracket nails. Since it is important that the posts are perfectly vertical, Ron and Dodie checked each one carefully with a handy post level. After each post was vertical, they used clamps and a series of braces to hold it securely in place.

3. Even off posts:

• The shower's concrete base was designed to slope toward the yard for drainage. To keep the posts even, they left the ones on the outside a bit longer. Using the level, they marked a cutting line on the taller post, and then used Ron's favorite tool, the Japanese handsaw, to trim off the top.
• It was important that all five of the posts were perfectly vertical, because those posts form the foundation for the rest of the structure.

• The next step was to frame around the top of the structure with 2 X 4's to secure all the sides together.

• They measured the distance between each post, then cut a miter on the end of each 2 X 4. This not only gave a finished look to the project, but also concealed the end grain. They glued the boards to the posts and to each other, with waterproof polyester adhesive and then secured the 2 x 4s to the posts with screws.

5. Shower walls:

• Next they installed three 2 X 4 crossbars between each section of two posts. The crossbars were attached to the posts with metal brackets. They used a level to make sure they positioned the crossbars evenly, then they attached the brackets to the posts with screws.

• Plastic mallets were used to nudge the 2 X 4's into place. The crossbars were then secured to the brackets with 10 penny X 1 ¼" galvanized nails made especially for metal brackets and joist hangers.

• The boards on the outside of the shower were 1 X 6 pressure treated pine. These boards were evenly spaced with a gap between each one then attached to the crossbars. Ron drew a line about 6 inches down from the top of each board. This was aligned with the top of the 2 X 4.

• After the boards were evenly spaced on the outside of the shower, they went back and placed additional boards on the inside to cover up each gap. This way they could create privacy in the shower while still allowing for plenty of good ventilation.