How to Install a Simple Garage Organization System

In this second segment of HouseCalls, Ron is invited to Greenwich, Connecticut to the home of Ann and Dick Egbert, who are ready to do some organizing, HouseCalls style! Over time the Egberts had stored so many odds and ends in their garage that they no longer had room for their car! They wanted to create shelves and cabinets but they found themselves in such a mess that they didn't know where to begin. They asked for Ron's expert help.

Click here for a list of what you will need in order to complete this project.

1. Clear out the garage:

• Begin by clearing everything out and away from the walls. Once you have a clean, empty garage, it is much easier to begin visualizing and creating an organizational plan.

2. Assemble cabinets:

• It is recommended that you assemble all of the cabinets first. The Egberts had purchased sturdy plastic cabinets that could be put together without the use of hand tools.

3. Determine cabinet placement:

• The cabinets that the Egberts selected were like building blocks, light and versatile enough to move around and sample different options. This is often the best way to get a feel for how you would like your cabinets installed.

4. Countertops:

• The Egberts's garage had a slight curb around the base of the wall, which presented a problem. The cabinet could not sit up against the wall and Ron was concerned that items would drop behind the cabinet and be very difficult to retrieve.

• The solution was to install a countertop that extended from the back wall to the front edge of the cabinet. Most home improvement centers carry pre-made counter tops that offer a quick solution in situations like this. They come pre-cut to standard lengths, they are very durable, and some have a back splash to prevent objects from falling behind the cabinet. Further, a countertop is useful because as things are taken out of the cabinet, there is a place to set them.
  
• Secure the countertop to the cabinets by attaching short #10 screws up through the top inside of the cabinet and into the underside of the countertop. Be careful to select screws long enough to make a firm connection and yet not so long that they might go through the surface of the countertop.

• The curb mentioned earlier also prevented the taller cabinet from being flush with the wall. Ron built a ledger, which is a horizontal wooden piece that matched the depth of the curb. The ledger was attached to the wall studs with #10 x 2 ½" screws to create a flush surface to attach the upper part of the cabinet to. After attaching the taller cabinet to the upper ledger, the cabinetry installation was complete.

5. Install shelving:

• Ron recommended an adjustable wire shelf system with a wide 16-inch shelf above the countertop and a narrower twelve-inch shelf below it.

• What makes this shelving system extremely strong and versatile is the support rail, which mounts at the top of the wall, next to the ceiling. The rail is secured by driving #10 x 2 ½" screws directly into the horizontal two-by-four, which is located at the top of most wood-frame walls.

• Shelf standards are attached to the support rail and can slide back and forth along the rail until the ideal position is located.

• Once you have positioned the standards where you want them, and you have checked to make sure they are plumb, secure them in place by first installing #8/10 plastic wall anchors, and then driving in #10 x 1 ¼" screws.

• Slip the rear of the wire shelf into slots at the back of the bracket. Then slide or gently push the shelf lip into the notch at the front of the bracket.

6. Hanging rack:

• For one last finishing touch, Ron added a high-tech rack for long-handled garden tools. Ron secured the rack to the wall studs with #12 x 2" screws and Dick helped him add the rakes, brooms and shovels.